Stage Twenty Five –Rabanal del Camino to Acebo

17 km

November 2, 2011

The Breaking Point!

I think everyone reaches a breaking point or two on the camino, and today was mine. I had such a terrible night. I was awakened by people coming in late to the big dorm. Then a couple only four bed widths away, proceeded to get it on right there. I had my ear plugs in but could still hear the talking and groaning. Then a man we called the “Snorer” started in. His snore was like a snore and a cough combined, and then he would mutter afterwards. He was an older man, riding a bike but a real big smoker. He only road as far as the walkers walked. After this night we tried to avoid him at all costs.

I laid awake all night and could not sleep and when the bell rang at 6:30, I had just got to sleep. Getting up was brutal. I was so angry with the couple, who were still sleeping together and I could now see directly from my bottom bunk. I tried to get my stuff together while holding back tears and just incredible anger. Soon the tears were coming down and Nick was aware of my mood as I expressed what I wanted to do to them. He was upset with the old snorer. I don’t think anyone slept well. Gabriel had a guy snoring right in his ear. No one was as upset as me though. I wanted to do nasty things to them..well mainly the guy.  He just did not shut up all night!! And the act of having sex right there was just inappropriate.

I got ready as fast as I could, thinking of ways to get back at him. Could I hide his pants? Could I smash him in the face? Throw water on them?  I will admit right now, that Nick and I found his hat in the dining area. I hid it under some books! Yup..I think I was at a breaking point!! As I left the albergue I had to pass by him. He looked at me and said “Buen Camino” ..I turned and looked him square in the eye and shook my finger at him saying “ Respect! Respect! Respect!” Then I turned and walked out. I wanted to hit him though!! As Gabriel pointed out..” Cheryl..I think your exact words were.. I want to smash his f***ing face in!!”. Yes, those were my words!

Now it was off to tackle 8 km. of uphill to the Cruz de Ferro and another hill after that, and then a severe downhill. I walked alone in the wind and rain, behind the rest, crying most of the way to the top. The Cruz de Ferro is a cross at 1505m where pilgrims stop to leave a stone from their homeland...a little tradition. I had brought a stone from the path I had trained on in Camrose. When I arrived, I got it out and climbed the rubble to the cross. I looked around and saw notes people had left with their carefully placed stones. I was in such a miserable mood that I just tossed my stone up in the air, to land where it may. Pam took my picture, and off we went. The Cruz de Ferro was kind of a disappointment as the highway runs right by it. I envisioned it being more remote.

We stopped in a small bar for cafe con leche and to dry out a bit. We continued on and I realized I had set my glasses down and left them back at the bar. I had to turn around and retrieve them. I walked back about 1 km and went into the bar. There were “The Shaggers.” That is what Nick (English)  had dubbed them. I quickly retrieved my glasses and got out. I caught up to the rest at the next bar.

We walked in the rain to Acebo on a rocky downhill path. It was a long way to the next albergue so Pam and I decided to stay in the small stone hotel there. It had a fireplace that several pilgrims gathered around, ringing out their socks. Brigette was also staying there. The guys went on to the albergue down the street, after we had a nice lunch and they dried out a bit.

Pam and I really needed the room, and it turned out we got the whole hotel for the afternoon. The owners closed up to go to Ponferrada for supplies. We got to drink wine, use their computer and internet, and stoke the fire all afternoon as we tried to dry everything out.  It was sooo nice to have a nice hot shower and then I snuggled under some fluffy blankets to get warm. Sometimes I felt perhaps I didn’t deserve such luxury when there were others who couldn’t afford it. But..I also knew that I had gone past the breaking point and needed to attend to my emotional and physical needs..ie..spoil myself!!

We went out for a nice pilgrim dinner with Nick, Brigette and Fernanda (Portugese ,spoke no English but some Spanish). Pam, Brigette and I, wandered back up the street to our hotel, after our allotment of wine that Nick made sure we got. It was still raining. It was so nice to have a private room and Pam didn’t snore.